![]() Before i changed the fluid, when i turned the wheel to lock, there would be a terrible grinding noise from the PS pump. The fluid that came out looked quite dark though. I have changed the PS fluid (not a flush, just changed what's in the reservoir until it looked clean) which didn't make any difference to the vibrations. This happens when the engine RPM is around 600-800 only, and doesn't happen in neutral, coasting at speed, or when given gas. The vibrations aren't violent, and the car doesn't shake. There aren't any strange noises from the engine. I think the pressure from the PS pump is not very smooth. it feels "notchy" and vibrations seem to be synced with the engine. When i put it into drive, with either the brakes or handbrake on, or when it's moving under the idle power, and turn my wheel, I can feel light vibrations through the steering wheel. If I can get the seat heater and rear defroster going I'll have everything glaring checked off the list.I have recently purchased a 2005 3.0R auto wagon which has done 22,000 km. I was NOT successful fixing the rear defrost, but can get a new window for ~ $200 which I hope will fix it. I DID fix the seat heater myself, burnt wire between the cushion and seat back, so that's a plus. I still need to do the timing belt and this car is so not worth all this, so gonna live with it. He thought it was just a noisy bearing and not a safety issue. Of course that would be another grand at least. He felt bad, messed with it for a few hours, thought it had to be in the rack and pinion like that last shop thought. Well after another grand I now have better sounding front struts, albeit a good 5 finger wheel well gap, went up a good inch, and the same noise when steering. He also quoted me for KYB quick struts - said mine were too tight and these rode more like oem. I had another shop take a look and the guy thought the steering noise was inner/outer tie rods. Just sounded like a jalopy over bumps, esp successive bumps. I hated the way the car sounded with the monroe struts that were installed a couple years ago. That's not to say I haven't thrown a bunch more money at it to try to get it fixed. It's embarrassing in parking lots but just tell myself they can't hear it outside On my V6 at least, no I haven't gotten the noise fixed. Maybe it's time for a few more tranny drain and fills :dunno: If I can get the seat heater and rear defroster going I'll have everything glaring checked off the list. Just feel like I maybe should've cut bait with this car instead. I can bring in my own parts next time which is a plus. My dad recommended this shop and they definitely seemed trustworthy and took their time with me. Shocks were more than double what I could've bought at amazon/rock auto. Raybestos EHT pads which look decent but the rotors were cheaper than what I would've picked. Their price for brakes/rotors all around was actually very good - $375. Shop thought the noise was actually the rust on the rotors rubbing since the wear indicator wasn't hitting. I got the stuck caliper pin loose but the pads were very tight and still made constant forward noise. I had all my brake parts picked out and was going to do myself but got a bad screech noise in the rear I couldn't figure out. They tried to help w/ labor since a lot of it was related. So spent a fortune on part markup with all this. Can get them online for $63 + $10 shipping. My local Honda dealer charges $101 + tax for each LBJ. Could be something in the steering column or rack. They thought it was safe to drive so I'm going to try to live with it. It doesn't complain if I'm moving, so perhaps it's slightly better than before. I do feel some vibration through the wheel when it does the popping noise. Unfortunately the creak noise is still present when turning the wheel from a stop or very slow speed. Getting two tires from the tire shop Monday. So add on a new axle assembly and front alignment. I should've stayed away from Cooper but I got CS5 clone Cordovans to match last time so will stick with them. Have fixed leaking seals on all of them plus the early replacement. Tires were new when I bought the car in 2011 and only about 23k on them so far. I replaced the other two last year due to a similar crack found when fixing a seal leak. ![]() They still couldn't pinpoint the noise but did find a Rt CV boot pinhole and substantial cracks in the inner sidewalls of my two older CS4 tires.
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